The beautiful Musee des Beaux Arts!

Monday, December 28, 2015

Hello!

Starting with Sunday night’s dinner, let me observe one thing:  I HATE ELECTRIC STOVES!  How’s that for an opinion?  So…the very well-equipped kitchen here in the apartment does include a very nice dishwasher, but also, an electric stove.  And, as neither of us has cooked on one in a really long time, it was like starting school all over again to figure out what to do … when to increase the heat, and when to lower it.   There are numbers on the stove, and it goes from 1 (coolest) to 8, and then goes to “H” which we means “the burner is off but it is still HOT!”  So…my objective was to make beef tips over rice, using the faux filet that we bought the other day at Les Halles Paul Bocuse. 

Me after the electric stove ...

That’s when I realized that there was a reason why I usually bring along a tablespoon measure and a plastic measuring cup … which I didn’t, for some reason, on this trip.  So … while R was able to pull up the recipe on the computer, I was going to have to eyeball all the measurements, as well as make the beef stock up out of a small capsule of beef-type gel!  Now that was a challenge!  I did find a large calibrated cylinder that I used for the stock, but other than that – oh, and did I mention that as there was no cornstarch, R needed to make a roux in order to thicken the base?  But, considering everything, I did manage to get both beef and rice and salad on the table at the same time, and incredibly, it tasted like it’s supposed to!  Wow!  So!  HA, I say to electric stoves!

Up this morning about 7 (and it is still SO dark then!) to another pleasant, breezy day. 

R at breakfast!

R went to our local boulangerie (Chez Jules) on the corner near the C3 bus stop, and brought back croissants and pain au chocolate, which we had with O.J. and lots and lots of raspberry jam.  Yum! We cleaned up the kitchen, and got ready to go out for the adventure du jour.  

Our favorite C3 bus!

Museum in former convent; cloisters in the center

Part of Egyptian temple doors

About 9:30 am we left the flat and caught the C3 which was just pulling in to the stop, and took it across the Saone to the Lyon City Hall and the Opera house, which are next to each other. 

Opera House

Stunning fountain

City Hall

Honestly, looking from Fourviere, the roof of the opera house more resembles a train station; it’s not a very attractive building.  But supposedly the acoustics are very good.  Walked around City Hall and in to the Place des Terreaux to their big fountain.  It’s HUGE, and reminds me most of the Trevi Fountain in Rome, as it looks like it’s just coming out of a wall, even though it’s free standing!  As the entire square is surrounded by high (4 – 5 stories) buildings, at this time of year, I’m not sure the fountain ever gets fully illuminated by the sun!  But R did take photographs, and it’s really quite amazing.  The story goes that it was originally built for Bordeaux, but proved too expensive for them – so it was purchased and brought to Lyon!  It’s really quite something, with its huge horses and streams of water.  (Wonder how they keep people out of it in the summer…)

On the side of the square facing the fountain, is the Musee des Beaux Arts, which is today’s musee of choice!  We were a bit early, so strolled around looking at shops, until 10 a.m. when it opened.  I had been researching the collection, and decided that we would start on the first floor, as the collection contained Egyptian, Greek, Roman and even a bit of near-east artifacts.  (I have read that this museum is one of the finest in Europe, and only second to the Louvre in France.)  

Very nice collection, all around!  We spent several hours going through the artifacts – just a piece or two from Nimrud and Persepolis,  (I am going to plan an Etruscan-Only trip at some point in the future!  All Etruscan All the Time!)  

More Egyptian gate

Wooden Osiris

Fragment from Nimrud

but a very good collection of Greek and Roman things, including an assortment of Etruscan work.

There was also a lovely exhibit of glass, sculpture and furniture from the Beaux Arts period.  There were some really terrific pieces!

We then stopped for a few minutes at the café for refreshment … me for Coke Zero and R for café.  Honestly, I would have loved a bowl of soup, as it was cool in the museum, but somehow, mushroom and snail soup just didn’t seem to go together for me. 

Small led sarcophagus

Greek Kore from Athens Parthenon

Stunning Greek vase

Then it was on to the second floor!

Beautiful beaux arts furniture piece

Loved this sculpture!

This floor contained mostly flat artwork (which is not my favorite), along with some sculpture, which was interesting. 

Etruscan make-up case!

Etruscan sarcophagus

Ancient duck weights!

Their collection of Impressionist work was excellent.  There were more than a few Monet’s, as well as work by Renoir, Degas, and Sisley, among others.  Very enjoyable!  There were also lots and lots of older pieces, but, as R remarked, I do tend to go pretty quickly through those rooms! 

Then, out the door and back to the flat for a late lunch, stopping for an incomparable French baguette along the way.  That, with the prosciutto, cheese and salami we already had, and unfortunately, our plans to go out for dinner may have been derailed – no more room for food!  

This Monet just glowed!

Fountain sort of in the sunlight!

Tomorrow, we are heading to Saint-Affrique (right next door to ROQUEFORT!) to visit our friends Nathalie and Pascal and their terrific kids, Julia and Nathan.  It will be wonderful to see them again!  We will be picking up a car at the train station, and then over-nighting in Saint-Affrique.  (It’s about a four hour drive from here.)  The weather calls for some rain, so hope we make it to the rental car place before that hits!  So … more later!

Lots of love,

m

xxx